frequently asked questions

Most full kitchens run 6 to 12 weeks of active work once selections are locked in. Demolition takes about a week, rough plumbing and wiring a few days, and countertops add 1 to 3 weeks after the cabinets are set.

Design and product selection come first, because cabinets and stone carry the longest lead times of anything in the room. Ordering happens before demolition so the job never sits idle waiting on a delivery truck. Structural changes follow the tear-out.

Most families stay put through it. Plan a temporary kitchen with a microwave, coffee maker, and refrigerator set up in another room, and expect the sink and range to be out of service for several weeks in the middle.

Active construction usually runs 3 to 6 weeks, and longer when the scope includes moving fixtures around. Tile work needs cure time between steps, and the waterproofing gets a flood test before anything goes over it, which nobody should rush.

Often yes. When the new shower keeps the same footprint as the old tub, the existing drain and supply lines usually stay put, and only the valve and drain assembly change. Relocating a drain adds subfloor work and inspection time.

Tile and glued-down floors normally go in first so the cabinets sit on a finished surface. Floating floors such as laminate or luxury vinyl plank go in afterward, because they need room to expand and contract under the toe kick.

Interior latex is dry to the touch in 1 to 2 hours and ready for a second coat in roughly 4 to 6 hours. Humid rooms stretch that window considerably, so we run the air conditioning while each coat flashes off.

Satin and semi-gloss hold up best in wet rooms because the tighter film resists moisture and wipes clean without burnishing. Flat and matte finishes look richer on ceilings and bedrooms, but they stain easily and rarely survive repeated scrubbing.

Refacing keeps the existing boxes and swaps the doors, drawer fronts, and veneer, which shortens the job considerably when the frames are still sound. Replacing removes everything and opens the door to a new layout, deeper drawers, and taller pantry storage.

Yes, and it matters more here than in dry climates. Wood moves with moisture, so boxes should sit inside the conditioned house before install rather than a garage or trailer. That step reduces the swelling and door rub humid summers cause.

Give a fresh pour about 7 days before any light vehicle traffic, and stay off it entirely for the first day or two. Concrete keeps gaining strength for roughly 28 days, so hold off on heavy trucks and trailers.

Concrete shrinks as it dries, and fine hairline cracking is normal rather than a defect in the pour. Control joints are cut early to decide exactly where that movement shows up, which keeps random cracks from wandering across the slab face.

Pressure-treated wood costs less upfront and needs cleaning and sealing every few years to stay presentable. Composite carries much longer warranties and shrugs off rot, insects, and mildew, which counts for a lot in our humidity. Both build beautifully.

Usually yes, especially for attached decks, raised structures, or anything that includes stairs and railings. We confirm the requirements with the local permit office before framing starts, so footings and ledger attachment pass inspection the first time through.

Between 50 and 85 degrees is the reliable working range, with the surface temperature at least five degrees above the dew point. JR Home Improvement Services LLC schedules exterior work in Shreveport, LA for spring and fall mornings whenever possible.

Wood siding generally holds a finish for 3 to 7 years, with dark colors on sun-facing walls fading first. Properly prepped vinyl and aluminum can last far longer than that. Humidity and direct sun shorten every one of those windows.

A 20-yard container handles most whole-house cleanouts, holding roughly six pickup loads of furniture and household goods. Large remodels usually step up to a 30-yard box, while heavy debris such as concrete and brick goes in smaller containers.

Cosmetic tear-outs such as cabinets, flooring, countertops, and fixtures rarely need one. Removing a wall, changing structure, or altering plumbing and electrical almost always does, and we handle that paperwork ourselves before anyone swings a hammer inside.

Those streaks are algae growth rather than dirt, and they spread by airborne spores in warm damp air. Our team treats them with a low-pressure cleaning solution that kills the growth instead of blasting protective granules loose from shingles.